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Bathroom vanities can be expensive and may not quite fit the space around it. When you make it yourself however, you not only save money, but you get the exact look you want, and get it to fit perfectly in its surroundings.

WATCH: Adam builds a modern, floating-style vanity

Looking for a modern, floating-style vanity featuring plenty of practical storage and even a hidden toilet roll holder? This is the DIY for you. By using off-the-shelf form plywood you're able to build the carcass with just one sheet. But it’s the Tassie cladding that gives this bespoke, floating vanity an expensive look and feel.

Use a tracking saw (or circular saw with fine tooth blade and saw guide) to cut a 3-5mm strip along the length and width of the formply sheet to reveal a clean new finish.

Working from the newly cut edges, use a tape measure, square and pencil to measure, mark and label components on the formply sheet, as shown in Carcass cutting plan. Cut formply components to size with tracking saw. Cut horizontal lines first, then cut along vertical lines of the 5 panels to create component.

To prepare to drill, measure and mark a 9mm line from edges of components C, D and F (see Carcass cutting plan). On A, B and C, mark up a vertical line 182mm in from the edge on both faces. On components A, B and E, measure and mark a horizontal line 178mm down from top edge on both faces.

On E, measure 206mm up from bottom edge. Apply wide masking tape along the line, so 206mm depth is exposed ready for scuff sanding.

To provide a key to attach the cladding, scuff sand external face of components A, E, F, G, H, I and J with electric sander and 40-grit sandpaper. Remove tape from E.

Using drill with clever tool countersink drill, bit and the marked lines on A, B, C, D, E and F as a drill guide, predrill pilot holes at 50mm in from edges, then about every 100mm thereafter.

Apply exterior PVA glue to the top raw edge of B (Base panel), then attach to C (Back panel). Insert screws through pilot holes on C, then screw tight.

Apply glue to top and left raw edges of E (Large divider), then attach to centre of line on C and B. Insert screws through pilot holes, then screw tight.

Apply glue to back and bottom raw edges of G (Small divider) and attach to line on E. Insert screws through pilot holes, then screw tight.

Flip carcass onto back. Apply glue to front raw edge of E, then front edge of B. Attach F (Front panel) to glued edges. Insert screws through pilot holes, then screw tight.

Put carcass back on base. Connect D (Right side panel) to C with glue. Insert screws through pilot holes, then screw tight.

Apply glue to top edge of E and G, then along 3 edges of A (Top panel) where it will join the frame. Attach A to the carcass. Insert screws through pilot holes, then screw tight.

To create hinge holes, place forstner template 30mm from edge of a door panel. Mark position, predrill holes to 10mm depth with a 2mm drill bit. Repeat on opposite side of door panel. Repeat for all door panels.

Clamp door to bench. Insert tip of forstner bit into central predrilled hole, then bore out hinge hole. Stop drilling when forstner lines up with door panel surface. Repeat for all door panels (H, I, J).

Attach hinges to doors. Use drill and screws supplied with hinges. Use overlay hinges on H (Right door) and J (Side door). Use inlay hinges for I (Left door).

Attach hinge brackets to door hinges. Hold door in position to line up with frame, so brackets find position on the inner wall of carcass. Mark position of bracket screw holes. Predrill with 2mm drill bit. Remove brackets, screw onto carcass.

Hang all doors onto brackets and adjust until doors are aligned.

Hold push catch in position on underside of A. Push catch should contact back of door when closed. Mark drill holes for push catch, then predrill. Insert supplied screws into fixing holes, screw tight. Repeat for other 2 push catches.

Place magnet onto end of push catch, remove backing. Shut door to align magnet. Apply pressure to magnet for 30 seconds to secure. Repeat for other 2.

Cut Tasmanian oak lengths as listed on Cutting list with mitre saw. Sand rough edges with 80- grit sandpaper. With a 65 x 19 x 393mm piece, measure, mark and cut at 20 x 19 x 395mm with circular saw. Label the narrow piece N, for Side door cladding.

Put on disposable gloves. Use paintbrush to apply stain blocker as a whitewash to sides and front faces of oak cladding pieces. Wait 20 seconds, wipe off excess with lintfree cloth. Allow to dry. Repeat to whitewash all raw timber edges on doors and carcass. Dab all screws too.

Gather, sort and label oak cladding strips for doors and panels. Refer to Oak cladding assembly diagrams and Vanity assembly diagram to install.

Working one panel at a time, apply glue liberally to back surface of each cladding piece and push tight onto the panel to spread glue and secure.

In roll holder alcove, install cladding to base first, then back panel. Complete with sides. Sides and base cladding pieces will overhang the front.

With a 42 x 19 x 203mm piece, cut in half for 2 pieces to 21 x 19 x 203mm. Attach these, plus the remaining 25 x 8 x 365 piece to the alcove fascia, fitting around the overhanging pieces. Hold in place with masking tape until glue sets.

With an electric sander, chamfer inner corner oak pieces on J and H, to prevent jamming when door is opened.

Rest roll holder (178mm) on ledge alcove.

Apply 2 coats of varnish to all oak cladding and timber edges. Allow to dry after each coat.

Cut a hole in top of vanity for your basin plumbing. Install vanity on the wall. Add your choice of tap, basin and countertop.

The final results.

Customise panel size and cladding pattern to suit:

You might also like:

How to create the illusion of a full bathroom upgrade

How to make a floating sideboard

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